Carat is weight, not size. A round brilliant carries much of its weight in depth, below the girdle where you cannot see it. An oval spreads that same weight across a longer outline. A 1.00 Ct round measures roughly 6.5mm across; a 1.00 Ct oval typically runs closer to 8mm long. On the finger the difference is obvious.

The elongation also works with the shape of the hand. An oval set north-south visually extends the finger in a way a round cannot.

Every oval has some degree of bow-tie — a dark band across the centre of the stone where light does not return properly. In a well-cut oval it is faint and only visible at certain angles. In a poorly cut one it dominates the stone.

This is the single thing to check when buying an oval, and it is not on any certificate. It has to be seen. Every oval in this collection is selected with the bow-tie assessed by eye before it goes into a setting.

Ovals range roughly from 1.30 to 1.50 in length-to-width ratio. Around 1.35 reads as a classic oval. Closer to 1.50 is distinctly elongated and dramatic. Below 1.30 starts to look almost round. There is no correct answer, but it changes the character of the ring completely, and it is worth deciding before you shop.

• Judge the bow-tie by eye, never by certificate. No grading report measures it.
• Decide your ratio first. A 1.35 and a 1.50 oval of identical carat weight look like different rings.
• Protect the points. The narrow ends of an oval are its most vulnerable. Prongs at the tips or a bezel setting matter for daily wear.
• East-west setting is worth considering. Turning the oval horizontally is modern, uncommon, and reads very differently from the standard orientation.

Twenty-nine oval designs in 14K and 18K gold, every stone IGI-certified. Solitaires, halos, hidden halos, split bands, east-west settings and toi et moi pairings.

Each ring ships with its certificate, insured worldwide delivery, lifetime exchange and free resizing. Custom work takes two to five weeks with a CAD approval stage. Visit our studio in Borivali West, Mumbai, or book a free virtual consultation.